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In this video, we detail the steps to install the 18598-1000 service kit into an 18590 series Jabsco macerator pump. Remember to disconnect the power, close seacocks, and wear gloves.
Jeff: Thanks for watching jabscotech.com. I'm Jeff Lander.
Mike: And I'm Mike Irving.
Jeff: And today we're going to show you how to install a service kit on your 18590 series macerator pump.
Mike: Now you're going to need an 18598-1000 service kit, a 3/8 and a 7/16 inch nut driver, large flat screwdriver, a pair of locking pliers, some gloves because you're coming in contact with some biological waste, and also some dishwashing liquid; it's going to help the pump prime later on down the road.
Jeff: Sounds good, Mike. Let’s get at it.
So here's a cut out to show you the components that we're going to be replacing today. We're going to be replacing the four fiber washers behind the acorn nuts. The two paper gaskets. The two short studs. The impeller body. The impeller. The small wear plate. And the shaft seal and retaining ring. In some cases, the shaft seal and retaining ring may come preinstalled, but if it doesn't, we'll show you how to install both of them.
The first step we're going to do is take you off the four acorn nuts, but before we do that, we want to make sure we're wearing gloves because you are coming in contact with human waste and contaminants. So again, make sure you're wearing gloves before you do this. Like I said, first thing take off the four acorn nuts with your 3/8 nut driver. And don't be alarmed if the studs come out when you do this, it is common, so don't be too worried. It is normal. There's our third one. And right when you start to loosen the 4th one, you may notice a little bit of fluid leaking from below. Like I said, that's normal. What I like to do is pre-loosen these four acorn nuts and then take them off by hand. And the fiber washes will have a tendency to follow those acorn nuts. Not to worry, because we're doing a service kit, so you will be replacing those four fiber washers. There's the fourth one coming off right now. Now that the four acorn nuts are off, we can go ahead and slide off that macerator housing.
Now that we have the macerator housing, the acorn nuts, and the fiber washers off, our next step is going to be taking off the chopper blade, the lock nut, the two paper gaskets and the large wear plate off.
First thing we want to do is take off this little rubber bumper at the back. This will expose the shaft for you to insert your flathead screwdriver. It could be a little tough job to do on your own, so Mike’s going to help me, and it's recommended that you get a friend to help you as well. Mike's going put the flathead screwdriver in the slide shaft and then I'm going to take the 7/16 nut driver, put it over the lock nut and turn.
Now that it's loosened, take off the lock nut, wiggle the stainless-steel chopper blade off. And now we can remove the paper gaskets and the large wear plate.
Now that the impeller body is exposed, we're going to simply slide it off and discard it. When discarding this, make sure you do it properly, because it does come in contact with human waste. The reason why we're discarding this is because the impeller body, the impeller, the two short studs, and the small wear plate come in the service kit and we're going to simply replace them with new ones.
With the new impeller body, just in case the seal on the back didn't come preinstalled, I'm going to show you how. We're going to take our spring-loaded seal, and with the spring-loaded side going face down, we're going to push it into the body – make sure it's nice and tight and push hard. And now with our retaining ring, we're going to put that on top of the seal and with our 7/16 nut driver, we're going to push that down into place. There you have it.
Now that the seal is on, I'm going to show you how to install the two short studs in the small wear plate. We're taking the two short studs and installing them into left and right position. Put the first short stud in and just make sure you get a couple of threads in because it will tighten when we go to put the acorn nuts back on later. After that’s set, we take the small wear plate and drop it into place.
Before we install the impeller, we're going to slide the impeller housing back onto the shaft of the macerator. Now keep in mind, take your finger hold it over the small wear plate and go ahead and reinstall the impeller body all the way back.
Now we're going to reinstall the impeller. Before we go to reinstall it, it's best to use some silicone grease, or if you don't have the handy, it's okay to use some dish soap. What you want to do is match up the flat side of the impeller with the flat side on the shaft of the macerator. Now lining these up, you're going to have to move the veins around to slide that on the shaft and that is okay because it will fix itself as the motor goes to turn. So again, there you have it. Match the flat side up on the shaft and the impeller, move the veins out of the way so it can slide, and then push it all the way down.
Now we're going to reinstall the two paper gaskets and the large wear plate. First things first, paper gasket goes on first. And you want to make sure that the cut out of the paper gasket matches the cut out of the impeller housing. After the first paper gasket comes the large wear plate. Again, that opening matches the same opening in the impeller housing. And then last comes the second paper gasket, keeping in mind that the cut out matches the same cut out of the impeller housing.
Now I'm going to reinstall the stainless-steel chopper blade and the lock nut. On the stainless-steel chopper blade, there's a tab. The stainless-steel chopper blade goes tap side down over the flat side of the shaft. And then we take the lock nut, which has two sides – there's a side with three triangular tabs that goes out. The side with no triangles goes down. The triangular side goes out. And we twist that on the shaft. Nominal hand tightness. And then we get our friend. Mike is going to take the flat sided screwdriver, hold it into the shaft end of the macerator while I take my 7/16 nut driver and tighten it back down.
Now we're going to reassemble the macerator housing. All you do is slide it on, however you want to make sure that the cut out in the macerator housing lines up with the open portion of the macerator. So again, we simply slide on the macerator housing making sure the cut-out matches. Now if you're unsure, one way to confirm this is flipping it upside down and you'll see that there's a little bump on both the macerator housing and the macerator. These two will line up.
The final step is reinstalling the fiber washers and the acorn nuts. Take the fiber washer, slide it over the stud. And then you take the acorn nut. And what I like to do is just get a couple of threads and then I'll tighten it down afterwards with my 3/8 nut driver. So just get a couple of threads. And then tighten it down. And the nominal hand tightness should do. If you crank down too hard, you risk putting extra stress on the stud or the plastic housing, which may cause damage to them. So again, nominal hand tightness when you're tightening it down with a 3/8 nut driver. There you go. Go ahead and finish it with the remaining three and there you go.
Mike: So we went ahead and we put a service kit into an 18590 macerator. How hard was it?
Jeff: Mike, wasn't too bad at all. Probably took half hour or so and would be up and running.
Mike: That service kit was in 18598-1000. Big thing is when you do take off the macerator make sure you close the seacocks on the vessel. You don't want any water coming in. And make sure you wear gloves and decontaminate your area. I'm Mike Irving.
Jeff: I'm Jeff Lander.
Mike: Thanks a lot for watching this episode of jabscotech.com. We look forward to seeing you in the future.